Windows 10
- Thread starter spionfox
- Start date
- Status
spionfox
Well-Known Member
Cate Fox
Well-Known Member
Good for you
I'm really suffering here!
I have seen a few instances on teh interwebs of people getting "something went wrong" and nothing else...
You think you've had problems...
My main computer is five years old and is nearing the end of its useful life. It's a laptop but lives permanently upside down (to help ventilation - it's been overheating) on a desk. The screen is broken and some of the keys don't work. So I have a separate monitor, keyboard and mouse plugged in. I have a fan blowing at the part of the case that gets hottest. Without this it overheats and switches itself off.
I thought a fresh install of Windows 10 might help it run more efficiently and less likely to overheat, so I downloaded the ISO as soon as the final version became available, and put it onto a USB drive.
I removed the SSD and put an old HDD in, so I could go back to my current version easily if anything went wrong. I also made a clone of my SSD onto another spare HDD, just to be extra safe.
I went into the BIOS settings, but it didn't give me the option to boot from USB. So I thought I'd put the clone HDD in and boot from that instead. But that wouldn't boot. I went back into the BIOS settings, and it couldn't find the HDD.
I have a HDD caddy in place of the optical drive, so I put the clone HDD into that, and it booted with no problem. But the wireless adaptor had also broken.
The wireless adaptor is on the motherboard close to where the main hard drive plugs in, so I thought maybe something inside had come loose. I decided to open up the case to have a look. Fortunately I only had to remove around 20 screws, as half of them are missing due to previous repairs I've made. Still a pain in the arse trying to get into it though.
When I eventually got access to the motherboard I couldn't see anything obviously wrong. With the computer still in pieces I went into the BIOS settings again, and it still couldn't see the main hard drive or the USB stick.
I was seriously pissed off by now, so I ordered a new (refurbished) laptop from ebay, which is due to arrive tomorrow.
After leaving the computer for half a day, I decided it might be a good idea to put it back together again. I couldn't be bothered to take much care when screwing everything back together, so I had 10 screws left over when I finished. Nine on my desk, and one somewhere on the floor.
I switched it on, and it now recognised the main hard drive, and booted up. The wireless adaptor was also now working.
After I'd finished banging my head against the wall, I went into the BIOS settings, and it now allowed me to select the USB stick as a boot device.
So I booted from the USB and did a clean install of Windows 10. It installed surprisingly quickly, and then asked me for my Windows product key. This surprised me because I thought it would just use the key that's embedded in the bios. I knew my key anyway, so typed it in. Windows 10 said it was an invalid key. It did let me skip this though, so I skipped it, and was able to use Windows 10. I then Googled the product key thing, and found out that you can't do a clean install of Windows 10, without first installing Windows 10 as an upgrade, and then activating it.
I'd done the clean install over the top of my clone HDD, so I had to create another clone so I could do the upgrade on that. Then I ran the upgrade, and everything worked.
When I had the laptop apart I cleaned the heatsink which was clogged up with dust which prevented a decent flow of air. Since then it's not overheated, even when I've turned off the external fan.
As Windows 10 was on a HDD rather than a SSD, it's a lot slower, so I've put my SSD back in and I'm using Windows 7 at the moment.
So I'm now in exactly the same position as I was before I did any of the stuff above, but my computer isn't now overheating, and I didn't need to waste money on a new one.
My main computer is five years old and is nearing the end of its useful life. It's a laptop but lives permanently upside down (to help ventilation - it's been overheating) on a desk. The screen is broken and some of the keys don't work. So I have a separate monitor, keyboard and mouse plugged in. I have a fan blowing at the part of the case that gets hottest. Without this it overheats and switches itself off.
I thought a fresh install of Windows 10 might help it run more efficiently and less likely to overheat, so I downloaded the ISO as soon as the final version became available, and put it onto a USB drive.
I removed the SSD and put an old HDD in, so I could go back to my current version easily if anything went wrong. I also made a clone of my SSD onto another spare HDD, just to be extra safe.
I went into the BIOS settings, but it didn't give me the option to boot from USB. So I thought I'd put the clone HDD in and boot from that instead. But that wouldn't boot. I went back into the BIOS settings, and it couldn't find the HDD.
I have a HDD caddy in place of the optical drive, so I put the clone HDD into that, and it booted with no problem. But the wireless adaptor had also broken.
The wireless adaptor is on the motherboard close to where the main hard drive plugs in, so I thought maybe something inside had come loose. I decided to open up the case to have a look. Fortunately I only had to remove around 20 screws, as half of them are missing due to previous repairs I've made. Still a pain in the arse trying to get into it though.
When I eventually got access to the motherboard I couldn't see anything obviously wrong. With the computer still in pieces I went into the BIOS settings again, and it still couldn't see the main hard drive or the USB stick.
I was seriously pissed off by now, so I ordered a new (refurbished) laptop from ebay, which is due to arrive tomorrow.
After leaving the computer for half a day, I decided it might be a good idea to put it back together again. I couldn't be bothered to take much care when screwing everything back together, so I had 10 screws left over when I finished. Nine on my desk, and one somewhere on the floor.
I switched it on, and it now recognised the main hard drive, and booted up. The wireless adaptor was also now working.
After I'd finished banging my head against the wall, I went into the BIOS settings, and it now allowed me to select the USB stick as a boot device.
So I booted from the USB and did a clean install of Windows 10. It installed surprisingly quickly, and then asked me for my Windows product key. This surprised me because I thought it would just use the key that's embedded in the bios. I knew my key anyway, so typed it in. Windows 10 said it was an invalid key. It did let me skip this though, so I skipped it, and was able to use Windows 10. I then Googled the product key thing, and found out that you can't do a clean install of Windows 10, without first installing Windows 10 as an upgrade, and then activating it.
I'd done the clean install over the top of my clone HDD, so I had to create another clone so I could do the upgrade on that. Then I ran the upgrade, and everything worked.
When I had the laptop apart I cleaned the heatsink which was clogged up with dust which prevented a decent flow of air. Since then it's not overheated, even when I've turned off the external fan.
As Windows 10 was on a HDD rather than a SSD, it's a lot slower, so I've put my SSD back in and I'm using Windows 7 at the moment.
So I'm now in exactly the same position as I was before I did any of the stuff above, but my computer isn't now overheating, and I didn't need to waste money on a new one.
spionfox
Well-Known Member
Wow Jeff, no wonder you banged you head on the wall!
On an associated note, in the new W10 calendar app there appears to be no way to assign an event to a different calendar (i.e. to Google from MS) once the event is diarised. When you make a new event you can choose which calendar to pout it it but once there the only option seems to be to delete and re-assign to the wanted calendar.
Anyone come across this yet?
On an associated note, in the new W10 calendar app there appears to be no way to assign an event to a different calendar (i.e. to Google from MS) once the event is diarised. When you make a new event you can choose which calendar to pout it it but once there the only option seems to be to delete and re-assign to the wanted calendar.
Anyone come across this yet?
spionfox
Well-Known Member
It was an upgrade on my laptop. Didn't want to do a clean install as some of the software licenses (e.g. MS Office) may not have allowed (yet) another reinstall.
It seems to be settling down a bit now but I'll be buggered if I'm installing it on my main desktop just yet!
spionfox
Well-Known Member
Poor show. ME and 3.1 are missing from that list!
Cate Fox
Well-Known Member
I have to use the windows phone for work - its an identical set up to that so I was used to it fairly quickly. Prefer windows 7...
Macky
Gruntled Member
98SE missing too
Matt_B
Well-Known Member
For what it's worth, I use Dropbox and GoogleDrive and had no permissions problems when I did an upgrade install. Having said that, I only have one account on my computer and it's not password protected.
spionfox
Well-Known Member
It was fine until I agreed to use my MS login details to access the computer rather than my usual 'local' ID.
Not sure if it was a coincidence but I'm not about to do that again!
Is it just me or is the Windows 10 'experience' a lowest common denominator type thing and less like 'proper' computing?!
Matt_B
Well-Known Member
Like Cate alluded to, I think it's designed to mirror the windows mobile devices. I'm more happy today now that I've figured out how to add "hibernate" to the power options on the start menu.
Richie_d123
Well-Known Member
I've not been offered the upgrade yet is there anyway I can prompt it?
Feriol
Well-Known Member
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
Download, run, choose upgrade.
Only do this if your computer has an upgrade reserved. Don't think it has been tested without. Worked for me.
Download, run, choose upgrade.
Only do this if your computer has an upgrade reserved. Don't think it has been tested without. Worked for me.
Last edited:
- Status
Championship
| P | Pld | Pts | |
| 1 | Leicester | 44 | 94 |
| 2 | Leeds Utd | 45 | 90 |
| 3 | Ipswich | 43 | 89 |
| 4 | Southampton | 44 | 84 |
| 5 | West Brom | 44 | 72 |
| 6 | Norwich City | 44 | 72 |
| 7 | Hull City | 44 | 69 |
| 8 | Coventry City | 43 | 63 |
| 9 | Middlesbro | 44 | 63 |
| 10 | Preston | 44 | 63 |
| 11 | Cardiff City | 44 | 62 |
| 12 | Bristol City | 44 | 59 |
| 13 | Sunderland | 44 | 56 |
| 14 | Swansea City | 44 | 56 |
| 15 | Watford | 44 | 53 |
| 16 | QPR | 45 | 53 |
| 17 | Millwall | 44 | 53 |
| 18 | Stoke City | 44 | 50 |
| 19 | Blackburn | 44 | 49 |
| 20 | Plymouth | 44 | 48 |
| 21 | Sheffield W | 44 | 47 |
| 22 | Birmingham | 44 | 46 |
| 23 | Huddersfield | 44 | 44 |
| 24 | Rotherham Utd | 44 | 24 |
